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LOOK INTO THE ART AND CULTURE OF EMPORDÀ THROUGH ITS CHARACTERS

The Guardians of the Coast

LIGHTHOUSES, LANDSCAPE, AND HERITAGE ON THE COSTA BRAVA

Perched on the hills, facing the sea, and exposed to the tramontane wind, the lighthouses are the best viewpoints when walking along the Girona coast.

Technology has completely transformed how these structures work, but it hasn’t changed the landscape or the character that has defined them for years. If there’s a perfect place to start our route, it’s Tossa de Mar. Its lighthouse houses the Mediterranean Lighthouse Interpretation Center, and visiting it helps us understand the importance of these constructions and the impact of technological progress.

Leaving La Selva and entering Baix Empordà, we stop at the Palamós lighthouse, known as Punta del Molí. Once used as a quarantine area during plague times due to its isolation, later urbanization absorbed it, and today it’s easy to reach on foot or by car.

In Llafranc, we reach the lighthouse: Sant Sebastià. With a range of about 60 kilometers (around 32 nautical miles), it’s one of the most powerful in Spain. Perched on a cliff, it forms part of the Sant Sebastià de la Guarda Monumental Complex, with a hotel and a restaurant that complete the experience.

The last stop in Baix Empordà is in L’Estartit. On the Meda Gran island rests the quiet, isolated Medes lighthouse. No lighthouse keeper has ever lived there—only seagulls have enjoyed this protected area almost exclusively for years.

In the heart of the Gulf of Roses, the lighthouse of the same name has become a landmark—not only for navigation but also for tourism. The views of the bay are spectacular. It’s such a strategic point that, even before there was a lighthouse, the people of Roses kept a permanent fire burning to guide sailors.

Heading north, near Cadaqués, we find Cala Nans lighthouse. Once a busy beacon, it lost importance when the town’s port traffic decreased. In the 1980s, it was almost demolished, but the locals united to save it—and succeeded. Today, getting there is a pleasant walk.

If you want a great hike, from Cadaqués you can reach Cap de Creus lighthouse, located inside the Natural Park. It’s the easternmost lighthouse on the Iberian Peninsula, just 500 meters from the cape itself, and also the most internationally known, as films like The Light at the Edge of the World, starring Kirk Douglas and Yul Brynner, were shot there. It’s a must-visit for its landscape, isolation, views, and history.

Keep in mind, however, that this lighthouse lies within a Strict Nature Reserve, under maximum protection, and that vehicle access is restricted for much of the year. Before visiting, check information about shuttle services and access conditions on the Cap de Creus Natural Park website:

https://parcsnaturals.gencat.cat/en/xarxa-de-parcs/cap-creus/gaudeix-del-parc/com-accedir-hi/

Our route ends a few kilometers further north, in Port de la Selva, where we find the s’Arenella lighthouse (Cap de Bol). Today, it’s one of the most enjoyable visits in the area, accessible on foot along the coastal path or directly by car.

Enjoying the coast with respect: tips for autumn and winter

Exploring the lighthouses is a wonderful way to discover the Empordà coastline, especially when the summer heat gives way to crisp skies and autumn winds. But this time of year also calls for more awareness and respect for the natural environment, especially in protected areas like Cap de Creus or the Medes Islands.

Plan your outing.

In autumn and winter, the weather can change suddenly: the tramontane wind can blow strongly, visibility may drop, and trails can become slippery. Before setting out, check the weather forecast, learn about marked trails, and avoid creating new paths that could damage the soil or vegetation. Wear appropriate clothing, non-slip footwear, and make sure you have enough daylight for your return.

Respect the natural environment.

During these months, it’s common to see people collecting forest materials—moss, pinecones, or branches—for Christmas decorations. Remember that collecting such materials is prohibited in many protected areas, as it disrupts the ecological balance. Moss, for example, helps retain moisture and prevents soil erosion. For a sustainable holiday decoration, choose artificial or responsibly sourced natural alternatives.

Outdoor sports, yes—but responsibly.

Climbing, trail running, and winter hiking are great ways to enjoy the landscape in peace and without crowds. Always practice them in authorized areas, respecting wildlife that may be hibernating or in sensitive periods. Avoid loud noises and leave the place just as you found it.

Share the land with those who live and work there.

Natural areas are also workplaces for farmers and shepherds. If you encounter livestock, don’t approach and leave gates as you found them. If you bring a dog, always keep it on a leash to avoid disturbing wildlife or livestock.

Enjoying the sea and the paths that connect the lighthouses is a privilege. Doing so consciously and respectfully is the best way to thank nature for all it gives us. This autumn and winter, let the lighthouses guide us not only along the coast but also toward a new way of relating to our surroundings—more mindful, more respectful, and more balanced.