By Stephen Shemella Photo Andrea Ferrés
Arriving to Can Bosc del Baró, one must first snake through dirt paths demarcating hectare after hectare of monoculture fields and conventional pig confinements. It isn’t until the property of Pere Pareta comes into sight that one starts to notice a difference: distinguishable rows of vegetables and a manageable plot of grains planted within eyesight of the house; a donkey couple, peacefully grazing in the overgrown patch specifically chosen for them; a separate and modest garden of interest between the donkeys and driveway; a cactus at the entrance of the house, just as tall, demonstrating the quantity of sun; and a mulberry tree to the rear which provides magnificent shade for both a relaxing outdoor chill out and half the house. Even more welcoming is the sight of Pere himself, hauling an irrigation hose with a smile while signaling where to meet.
Pere came into the business of being a pageso from his family, but each generation had their own unique take on what it meant to be a farmer. His grandfather purchased the land as the forest it was in 1945, upon his release from prison after the civil war. After supporting separate generations of animals and agriculture, these cultivable five hectares are now in the hands of Pere. Taking over for his father, he continued with the conventional ways known throughout the region as the standard practice. Some years later, alongside his success, Pere knew something wasn’t right. He didn’t lay down his functioning farm for the desire to become organic; he abandoned the practice of applying poisons to the Earth, and sought out a different approach.
It can be difficult at times, amidst the vast shadow of conventional farming - surrounded on all sides - to gain a foothold in the market of ecological farming. Pressure from neighbors, laughing at efforts to compete with yields only achieved with agrochemicals, forced Pere to retract, and focus on his work. This led him to adopt a method of farming which allowed an area of expertise; by growing a select set of vegetables and not dispensing energy going to markets, instead collaborating with and supplementing the local farmers who do, he can complement their products, and spend more time caring for each plant directly. Following this farming style, paired with his determination, it didn’t take long for his produce to speak for itself. In no time, those same neighbors began to ask for advice, giving Pere the proof that if the focus is put towards the health of the ecosystem above production numbers, those yields will return, with immense power. Pere’s fields achieve near similar results to those of his neighbors, and his highly nutritious, chemical free, and certified organic produce is becoming more desired in the markets year after year. Consumers are learning the difference, and demanding the availability.
Not only is sustainable agriculture becoming more desired by patrons, chefs, and regular parents who put food on the dinner table, but they are also starting to look towards the source. Now available to farmers and home garden enthusiasts alike, are ecological seeds, direct from farms like Pere’s. An association here in Catalonia, “Les Resfardes,” helps connect farmers who are not only interested in serving their community healthy food, but also healthy seeds. This is where we find Pere’s garden of interest. Growing for seeds takes different methods than growing for food, and Pere loves it. Here, he shows a scientific side, intricately studying the resulting products, the seeds, and the methods to improve the seeds he offers year after year. Discussing with others who do the same and meticulously looking for heirloom varieties, Pere finds enjoyment in saving seeds. This extra area of expertise, while not being performed for economic reasons, helps to maintain the equilibrium of the farmer, which evidently improves the quality of everything else he touches.
Of all the efforts that come into play in order to succeed in sustainable agriculture, there are a few basics that all farms require: sun, water, healthy soil, and quality seeds. Here at Can Bosc del Baró, all are found in great harmony, and more. The remnants of the forest to the west topping a small ridge bring a feeling of serenity, and not seen while approaching is the river Ter, just over 200 meters away. As the unsung hero of the land, the Ter supports the ancient mulberry tree and a shallow well that provides a surplus of water. Visiting what was once the forest of Baró, an unaware observer is taken in by the energy of the land and becomes forgetful that all farms in the vicinity aren’t as healthy, quaint, and viable for the future. Driving away, with a strong whiff of a pig farm in the distance, hope is in the air; consumers know the importance of health for their children, and are rapidly learning that its roots are buried deep in the soil.
