“It wasn't a large stretch of sea, but to us it seemed like an entire world”
Rafel Nadal, Mar d'estiu
The Empordà never ceases to amaze. The passage of time itself can completely change a familiar landscape. If we add to this the changing establishments and activities that take place there, we realize that the possibilities for experiences in this region are endless. The challenge is choosing one. With this in mind, we're presenting a five-day getaway that will take you from the Alt Empordà to the Baix Empordà with nature and culture tips and suggestions for activities and places to eat and sleep, adapted to everyone's needs. This route will help you discover the most authentic Empordà and experience it with all of your senses. In every sense.
Day 1: Touch
The sea breeze embraces us as we step outside. The powerful tramuntana winds that characterize this area in the Alt Empordà aren’t blowing today. We park our car at the entrance to Cap de Creus near Cadaqués, where the bus leaves for the Natural Park. Once we reach the point at Cap de Creus, we stroll around the area and head towards Culip Cove, passing through the moon-like landscape at Tudela to swim in its crystal clear waters. The walk has made us hungry, so we stop to eat at the Restaurant Cap de Creus where we enjoy its international flair with delicious curry and regular live music, all facing the stunning views of the Mediterranean.
In the afternoon we head to Martín Faixó winery where Edgar Tarrés surprises us with a visit about winefullness. We discover the properties of wine using all of our senses, combining nature and creativity. We leave our luggage at the winery’s Sa Perafita rural lodging and head to Cadaqués for dinner. What could be better than local anglerfish and freshly caught shrimp at the family-owned restaurant Es Baluard? Everything is delicious! With the salt still fresh on our palates, we return to the hotel and are amazed by the spectacular night sky here far from urban areas.
Alternatives
In Cadaqués, we can also indulge in delectable tapas at Enoteca MF paired with wine they produce; dine at the iconic Casa Anita where Juanito will sing the menu to us as only he knows how to do; enjoy Compartir if we want to try a bit of everything modern cuisine offers; or check out Talla if we want tapas with spectacular views. For a good night's sleep, there’s Casa Nereta, Hotel Tramuntana, or Hotel Villa Gala.
Day 2: Hearing
The morning silence awakens us. After a good breakfast, we head to Capmany where we continue to discover the Empordà's wine tradition. This time, we do it with forest bathing and a tasting for all the senses paired with wild plants in the Olivardots Vineyards. Anaïs from Aromes al Bosc joins us to for an authentic experience of connecting with nature. With our minds still a blank slate, we approach the Torlits seasonal marshes at the foot of the Albera, discovering this unique and protected ecosystem. When the sun begins to bear down, a vermouth in the Agrobodega Parral in Capmany seems like the perfect idea for us to rest, buy a few bottles of wine, and pass the time before lunch at La Llar del Pagès. Toni, the chef, is in charge of selecting the products, always top quality and seasonal, such as mushrooms or truffles.
In the afternoon we head to Figueres to visit the renovated Empordà Museum and the numerous contemporary and local exhibits on display. The hours fly between artists and works of art, but now it's time for Avinyonet de Puigventós where we'll spend our second night. At the Mas Falgarona Boutique Hotel we relax while watching the sunset from the Spa, an old barn that has been converted just like the old farmhouse. The whole building has been restored while preserving the original style, with quality, local touches. All the paintings on site are by renowned contemporary or emerging artists from the Empordà. We dine at the hotel and taste the dishes made with fruits and vegetables from their organic vegetable garden, consistent with their philosophy.
Alternatives
Two other recommendations for dining in the center of Figueres include L’Integral, a restaurant with vegetarian and vegan cuisine, and El Motel, traditional cuisine specializing in black radishes. For a good night's rest, there’s La Farinera Sant Lluís (Pont de Molins), Hotel Peralada (Peralada), or Les Hamaques (Viladamat).
Day 3: Taste
We make our way towards the Baix Empordà and reach Pals. After leaving our luggage at the Arkhé Hotel Boutique located in the old town, the beach beckons. We spend the first few hours of the day between the water and the sand, near dozens of kitesurfers who leave us awestruck as they soar over the waves. At lunchtime we meet with Marta Romani, who prepared a conscious nutrition dining experience for us on the hotel's terrace. The menu is based on wild plants and aromatic water. It's a magical combination for us to taste while learning about healthy and respectful nutrition.
In the afternoon, it’s time for contemporary art: the Fonteta pop-up gallery. This joint project led by Bombon, Galeria Joan Prats, and NoguerasBlanchard is only in the Empordà from June to September in Fonteta, and it's a privilege to see it! While in the town, we step in the shop Abricoc to greet Alba and grab a delicious Cheese Box full of local products: cheese, sausages, hazelnuts, jam, and herbs.
To wrap up the day with a good flavor in our mouths, we indulge in an experience for our taste buds with contemporary Catalan cuisine at Vicus, a restaurant built from a converted family-run hostel, where we can choose one of their signature Pals rice dishes, the star product of the area. We choose a black rice with squid and pear aioli that's so spectacular we can still taste it the following day.
Alternatives
There are multiple dining options in and around Pals. El Solblanc and Es Portal (Pals); Can Bach (Sant Feliu de Boada); el Turandot, el Diferent, and l’Aigua Blava (Begur); el Casamar (Llafranc); and La Blava, Les Voltes, and el Fiego (Calella de Palafrugell). For a good night's rest, there’s Sa Calma, Aiguaclara, or La Bionda (Begur) or one of the charming farmhouses that VIU Empordà rents out in various municipalities.
DAY 4: Smell
Permeated as we are with Empordanese landscapes, we awaken wishing we could take them all home. For this reason, we first head to Celler Sota Els Àngels, located right in the middle of the beautiful Gavarres. This is where we'll keep a piece of the Empordà's soul thanks to its wines made with organic-biodynamic agriculture. The drivers behind this space nestled between vineyards and cork oak trees, Maria Jesús and Guy, explain that this wine is the result of the environment and intuition. Next we go to the Gla Empordà store in la Bisbal d'Empordà. Far from kitschy souvenirs, they offer true pieces of the Empordà. Their work is craftsmanship in its purest form, made from regional materials, textures, and scents. Apart from objects, they also do interior design for homes with these items. We have a seasonal lunch at La Cantonada, a fusion restaurant that blends dishes with creative touches without losing simplicity.
In the afternoon it's time to admire contemporary art at the Casavells Palace. This is the summer project of Alzueta Gallery, based in Barcelona and Madrid. It's a commitment to modernity, radicalism, transformation, ideas, the politics of change, and everything that can improve people's lives through art. It's truly a hidden gem.
After the visit, we continue on towards La Bruguera de Púbol where we will spend the last night. This sustainable, bike-friendly home is of particular interest to cyclists, yoga practitioners, and environmentally-conscious travelers, people from diverse backgrounds just like its owners. We rent bikes for a ride around the property and stop at És! Carxofa, where we're having the last meal of our getaway. Whether tasting the artichoke heart confit or one of their rice dishes, we couldn't have chosen a better place to finish our journey: the authenticity of the food and the tranquility of the town square.
Since we're already in Púbol, we can't forget the Caterina Roma gallery where we discover the ceramic artist's home and workshop, where Manolo Sierra is the guest artist this year. Until July 31st, we can enjoy a selection of works that the painter has adapted to this unique and peculiar space.
Alternatives
For dining, we could also choose BoTic (Corçà), La Plaça (Madremanya), L'Escola (La Pera), or Monki, a Japanese restaurant with Mediterranean and original touches (Monells). For a good night's rest, there’s Can Bassa (Madremanya), La Lolita (St Martí Vell), or Can Safrà (La Pera).
Day 5: Sight
We wake up before sunrise on our final day. We've reserved a spot in one of the yoga classes held in La Bruguera. It's the perfect activity for returning home with all our senses awakened. The first rays of light bring to mind the places we have just visited and all the values we have seen in them: authenticity, sustainability, essence, respect, and gratitude. We hold them in our memory. The Empordà has captivated us once again, in every sense. We'll be back.
