I was dreaming of a heavenly Greek beach, but I stayed put in a bright cove in Palamós. The pandemic kept me from venturing too far from home, and this was the perfect excuse to stick around for local tourism. What a pleasure it was to rediscover that our Mediterranean coastline has nothing to envy about the sea's eastern shores.

Three-and-a-half kilometers of nearly new, well maintained, and inviting trails were there to be discovered with new eyes and an open heart. This is what awaits hikers on the Ronda de Mar seaside trail from Palamós that leads to Castell beach, a route that the City Hall has recently renovated and even improved with its own app: "Palamós, Ronda de Mar." Hiking the trail is now easier than ever, and well worth it. The journey offers many rewards, especially during the final stretch, just like the best books and films.

With the new app in hand, I set out to rediscover the town's seaside trail, beginning at the Port Marina nautical leisure center. Along the way, the first coves we discover are Pots and Margarida. Seagulls, ravens, and terns fly over the coastline, seemingly wanting to tell us what we'll find on the other side of Cape Gros. The extensive Fosca cove begins there, a sandy area that's an ideal place to pause for a coffee or a drink while reading surprising details on the app about this beach that has attracted tourists dating back to the early 20th century. From here, a buoy-lined canal (the Via Brava) marks the path for swimmers to reach Castell beach, an extraordinary experience for people who love swimming in open water and underwater biodiversity. However, we continue along the trail by land, soon reaching the ruins of the 11th century St. Stephen’s Castle, built upon a Roman settlement. Did you know that a Russian “prince” bought the fortress to restore it, but died in an accident in 1935? Things are starting to get interesting, the trail most of all. We cross the pleasant d'en Gori pine forest and stop to enjoy the view: the beautiful Alguer cove can be seen in the distance and, beyond it, the Castell – Cap Roig Natural Protected Area.

The crashing waves keep us company as we pass by the edge of Pallarida cove and soon we reach the highlight of the trail: Alguer cove. Like some of the Greek coves that many of us have dreamed of visiting, this one also occupies a top spot on Instagram (#calasalguero). Its white houses with colorful doors and windows make it a photogenic, unforgettable spot. Set aside sharing photos on social media for a moment and take the time to observe the enchanting horizon. These old fisherman's homes that form part of the landscape were declared a Cultural Asset of National Interest in 2004.

Reaching the trail's end, we arrive at Castell beach, which nearly became a large development with a hotel and golf course. Fortunately, local pressure halted the project and we can still enjoy one of the last virgin beaches on the Costa Brava. The forests, cliffs, and coves surrounding the site all make the visit worthwhile. Dating back to the 6th century BC, the Iberian town of Castell is also worth discovering, boasting some of the most beautiful views in Catalonia. If you're interested in art, Josep Maria Sert's former studio is located at the foot of the Iberian town, once a meeting place for stars such as Coco Chanel, Marlene Dietrich, Luchino Visconti, and Salvador Dalí.

Perhaps we should think twice before dreaming of distant beaches when we have so many valuable treasures so close to home. These gems deserve to be appreciated and preserved, and towns such as Palamós are already doing so. Perhaps one day the Greeks will be the ones who dream of Empordanese beaches?

www.visitpalamos.cat

QR code for the app “Palamós, Ronda de Mar”